36
WATCH YOUR TIME |
COLLECTOR
Another standout collaboration comes from Bvlgari,
which reinterpreted its signature serpent design in part-
nership with MB&F. The result is the Serpenti 2.0, an
extraordinary piece driven by the manual-winding HM10
movement. Time is displayed on two domed indicators:
the left completes one revolution in 12 hours, the right
in 60 minutes. On the reverse, the power reserve (45
hours) is visible along with other components from the
hand-finished calibre’s 310 parts.
A similar level of complexity is found at Richard Mille,
with its RM 75-01 Tourbillon Volant Saphir, the brand’s
first model to house a movement specifically designed
for a sapphire case. It’s an art-work of gothic complex-
ity, available in three ultra-limited versions.
Hublot, meanwhile, continues to appeal to seasoned
collectors with a more compact and technical evolution
of its iconic Big Bang Meca-10. Offered in King Gold, tita-
nium or frosted carbon, the 42 mm model pairs avant-
garde design with cutting-edge engineering. Its skele-
tonised movement, inspired by Meccano, delivers an
impressive ten-day power reserve. With a distinctive rack
system and visible balance on the dial side, it embodies
the brand’s bold mechanical DNA — perfectly in tune
with today’s appetite for unapologetic masculinity.
Mechanical excellence also finds expression in more
classical forms. At Chopard, the 25th anniversary of its
Quattro technology is marked by the L.U.C Quattro Mark
IV, offered in platinum or rose gold. Thanks to four super-
imposed barrels (containing 1,885 mm of mainspring), it
delivers a nine-day power reserve.
Among the mechanical staples held in high esteem by
collectors, Rolex continues to lead with the new GMT-
Master II, the first to feature a ceramic dial, as well as
with enduring icons such as the Villeret from Blancpain
or the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, the latter enjoying a
special spotlight this year. All are rooted in the great
20th-century eras of design and innovation, and remain
closely tracked by collectors.
Mechanical mastery also reigns in Japan, where Grand
Seiko has elevated the art of timekeeping through a strict
adherence to simplicity, precision, refinement and tech-
nical excellence. At the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi,
timeless watches are crafted with dials that often take
their cues from local landscapes, as with the SLGH027, a
Hi-Beat model in the Evolution 9 collection, whose tex-
tured dial evokes the majesty of Mount Iwate.
Lastly, no discussion of mechanical marvels and arti-
sanal intelligence would be complete without mention-
ing Breguet. The house invented one of the most beau-
tiful and celebrated complications of all, the tourbillon.
In honour of this invention, Breguet last year presented
its most elaborate tourbillon watch yet: the Classique
Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge. Powered by the
588N2 hand-wound movement with 740 components
and a 60-hour reserve, this rose gold timepiece features
a richly decorated front and back, hand-finished in the
Manufacture’s workshops. As a piece of horological art
and desire, it is nothing short of mesmerising, a tech-
nical challenge met with poetic flair. ■
1. PANERAI Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica. Launched
for Milan’s Salone del Mobile, the PAM01574 is a 44 mm black
ceramic Luminor powered by automatic calibre P.9012, visible
through a smoked sapphire crystal caseback.
2. RICHARD MILLE RM 75-01. The RM 75-01 Flying Tourbillon
Sapphire presents an unprecedented sculptural aspect that was
specifically designed for the 32.90 × 46.75 mm, sapphire case
and required over 1,000 hours of work. Limited to 10 pieces in
the blue-back edition.
3. BVLGARI X MB&F Serpenti. Their second collaboration
transforms the iconic Serpenti into an extraordinary Horologi-
cal Machine displaying hours and minutes through rotating ser-
pent eyes. Three limited editions of 33 pieces each, including the
Grade 5 titanium version shown here.
4. HERMÈS Arceau L’heure de la lune. The 43 mm Arceau L’heure
de la lune, first released in 2019, is offered in three new versions
within a set limited to 12 pieces, featuring meteorite dials, includ-
ing a fragment of Erg Chech for the white and rose gold models.
5. TAG HEUER Monaco Chronograph x Gulf. Celebrating TAG
Heuer’s legendary partnership with Gulf, this 39 × 39 mm tita-
nium watch is limited to 971 pieces, commemorating 1971, the
release year of the film, Le Mans. The automatic Calibre 11 is vis-
ible through the sapphire caseback.
6. LONGINES Conquest. Available in 38 or 41 mm steel cases
with blue, green, or black dials, featuring matching rubber straps
adorned with the brand’s hourglass motif. This descendant of a
1954 model houses an exclusive automatic movement.
7. RADO Captain Cook Over-Pole. Reinterpreting a 1962 model,
this 39 mm watch, featuring a manual Worldtimer R862 movement,
comes in yellow-gold PVD-coated steel, limited to 1962 pieces.