UK Edition 2025 – The Daily Telegraph

|  WATCH YOUR TIME

57

© LUC BRAQUET

PATEK PHILIPPE 7340/1R-001. A pleasant

surprise for women who appreciate mechani-

cal watches: the Twenty4 collection welcomes

its very first complication, a perpetual calen-

dar offered in two versions. The model shown

here features the ultra-thin self-winding Calibre

240 Q, visible through a sapphire caseback and

displaying calendar functions and moon phases

on a silvered dial with both vertical and horizon-

tal satin finishes reminiscent of ‘shantung’ silk.

This rose gold watch with matching bracelet is

also the first round Twenty4 without diamonds.

Also available with an olive-green sunburst dial

(7340/1R-010).

W O M E N ’ S

By Paloma Recio, Editor of the R&E Magazine

Women's

Mechanical

Watches

“Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.”

Oscar Wilde (1854-1900)

Since the end of the last century,

mechanical watchmaking has once

again developed with a focus on

women. An increasing number

of brands are offering watches in

this category specifically designed

for women, sometimes even

featuring grand complications. We

can say that mechanical watches

for women have regained their

nobility and earned their well-

deserved place in the spotlight.

ollowing the quartz crisis, mechanical watchmaking regained promi-

nence, initially catering primarily to men. The female population, once

thought to be indifferent to mechanical watches, was mainly offered

small quartz watches. However, women, who also appreciated fine horology,

expressed their disagreement by embracing men’s models. This was evident

in the success of Panerai, whose 44 mm-diameter watches were adopted by

women at the end of the 20th Century and the beginning of the 21st. Over time,

mindsets shifted, and today, a large number of mechanical watches for women

are available. Some feature complicated movements that brilliantly combine

horological mastery and aesthetics and this is a trend increasingly embraced

by brands. Optimistically, one might say that there is a significant push in this

direction, as if the watchmaking industry had rediscovered the female half of

the population and is striving to meet its demand, having realised that women

of the 21st Century are the major consumers, and that for them, the watch is

no longer just a fashion accessory, but an object that reflects social status and

personality, a manifestation of the power they exert in contemporary society.

A Symbol of Emancipation

The time when it was considered that women did not need to know the time

– and even that it was inappropriate for them to care about it – is long gone.

But, as happens so often, when something is forbidden or rejected, it becomes

a challenge. Carried by the winds of change that were beginning to fill the air

of the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, women took the liberty of wearing

wristwatches long before men decided to follow suit – wearing a watch on the

wrist became a symbol of emancipation and even authority.

WOMEN’S