UK Edition 2025 – The Daily Telegraph

60

WATCH YOUR TIME  |

WOMEN’S

Watchfinder, with

confidence

Pre-owned watches now represent a growing

share of the global watch market, a shift now wel-

comed by most major brands. According to a Deloitte

study covering key Swiss watch markets from 2020 to

2024, the secondary market is on track to match the

size of the primary market within the next decade.

But with this success comes a surge in fraud, making

it all the more important to rely on trusted resellers.

Expert oversight is increasingly vital, as coun-

terfeits are becoming harder to detect, with the

accessibility of 3D printing being a key problem. At

Watchfinder, experts now say they can immediately

identify only about 20% of fake watches at first glance,

with 80% requiring a closer inspection. Just five years

ago, those numbers were reversed.

Founded in 2002 and part of the Richemont group

since 2018, Watchfinder is one of the leading plat-

forms for certified pre-owned watches. At any one

time it has an inventory of watches measured in the

thousands from more than 70 luxury brands, all avail-

able online and through its global network of bou-

tiques. All watches are authenticated and serviced

in-house by Watchfinder’s expert team, working in

the only dedicated service centre operated by a pre-

owned watch retailer, the centre having certifica-

tions from most of the world’s top manufacturers.

The company also handles after-sales service and

provides a full 24-month warranty.

Watchfinder also offers premium services, includ-

ing personalised trade-ins and financing options,

alongside human support through concierge assis-

tance, private appointments, click & collect, and a

steady flow of well informed editorial content via

TWM (The Watch Magazine).

Earlier this year, the company released its first

Just in Time report, which will be published annually,

offering a data-led analysis of the most sought-af-

ter models on the global second-hand market, all

based on seven criteria. In the 2024 global top 10,

Rolex dominates with six entries, including the

Datejust and Submariner in first and second place,

followed by Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak (3rd),

Omega’s Speedmaster and Seamaster (5th and 7th),

and Cartier’s Santos (8th). Regionally, France shows a

clear preference, with Cartier’s Santos and Tank tak-

ing the top two spots ahead of the Royal Oak. ■ ED

Complications

For women’s watches, the moonphase function is

considered a gateway to the world of complications,

but it is not the only one gaining traction. Since the

first in-house minute repeater created in the early

20th century, Patek Philippe has continued to develop

complications in its wide range of women’s watches.

Chronographs, world time watches, annual or per-

petual calendars, and minute repeaters, such as the

fascinating Aquanaut Luce presented by the manu-

facture at the end of 2023. A grand complication that

combines high watchmaking and high jewellery in

a colourful sound arc of sapphires and diamonds.

Vacheron Constantin, with its long history in tra-

ditional mechanical watchmaking (celebrating its

270th anniversary this year), has always offered an

interesting range of mechanical watches for women.

In addition to the Patrimony automatics or manual

models, with or without a date, and the Égérie with

moonphases, the brand presented the Traditionnelle

ultra-thin perpetual calendar a few years ago, a grand

complication featuring an in-house calibre with auto-

matic winding and a programmed calendar until 2100.

Last year, Audemars Piguet, celebrating its 150th

anniversary, presented the Royal Oak Tourbillon

Concept. A manual-winding watch produced in a lim-

ited edition in a “frosted gold” case, in rose or white,

created in collaboration with designer Tamara Ralph.

In early 2025, the Brassus manufacture launched

a new women’s tourbillon. The watch features an

automatic flying tourbillon in a 38 mm case of “sand

gold,” set with 235 diamonds, from the Code 11.59

collection. It is the first complicated women’s watch

in a line that also features automatic models distin-

guished by their dial finishes and colours.

1. TIFFANY & CO. Eternity by Tiffany. This quartz watch in

white gold (28 × 28 mm) boasts nearly 6 carats of diamonds: 44

on the bezel, one solitaire on the crown, 455 on the bracelet and

12 serving as indices. Each index, uniquely sized, embellishes

a sunburst guilloché dial finished in lacquered Tiffany Blue.

2. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Ruban Mystérieux. Inspired by

haute couture, this gold watch depicts a ribbon encircling a

manual-winding timepiece. At its centre, a 3.72 carat oval dia-

mond discreetly reveals the time. The ribbon comprises snow-

set diamonds alongside mystery-set sapphires and emeralds.

Unique piece.

3. HUBLOT Big Bang One Click Joyful. Celebrating the 20th

anniversary of the Big Bang, this 33 mm steel model, pow-

ered by the automatic MHUB1120 calibre, radiates with the

brilliance of coloured stones including the 36 pink sapphires

featured here. Equipped with the patented One Click quick-

change system, it comes with two rubber straps.

4. GRAND SEIKO Heritage SBGW323. Inspired by the iconic

44GS from 1967, this watch features the distinctive Mt. Iwate

textured dial in violet, reflecting the colour of the “kiri” flow-

ers common to the region. The 36 mm steel case houses the

manual-winding Calibre 9S64.