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WATCH YOUR TIME |
WOMEN’S
A special mention goes to Richard Mille’s wom-
en’s watches because, in addition to their complex
mechanical movements, they feature new materi-
als. Chronographs, tourbillons, or simply automatic
models, they boast cases made of carbon, quartz,
ceramic, or coloured sapphire, in addition to more
conventional cases in gold, steel, or titanium.
Not to forget Van Cleef & Arpels’ Poetic Complications,
which caused a stir when they were first released in
2010. Never before had the technique been used in
such a way to create highly poetic, custom animations.
Design Serving Technique
In line with this, major haute couture brands
such as Chanel and Dior regularly offer mechanical
models, even with complications, crafted with the
utmost respect for Swiss horological tradition, but
with a focus on design. Chanel, for instance, presents
a large number of watches in its iconic J12 collection,
equipped with in-house movements designed and
developed in its La Chaux-de-Fonds workshops. Last
year, the Maison made waves with an on-demand
animation on the dial of the J12 Automate Calibre 6,
and this year, it celebrates the 20th anniversary of
the model with a range of J12 Bleu creations, dressed
in ceramic and blue sapphires, including the J12 Bleu
Tourbillon Diamant, which showcases a tourbillon
enhanced by a remarkable diamond.
As for Dior, it demonstrates great creativity in its
Dior Grand Bal collection, featuring a unique reversed
movement that presents the oscillating mass on the
dial side, with sophisticated shapes inspired by ball-
gowns designed by the French couturier.
Whether adhering to the purest tradition or
embracing fantasy and imagination, with or without
complications, mechanical watches for women have
unquestionably regained their nobility and earned
their place in the spotlight. ■
1. LOUIS VUITTON Tambour Convergence. A new collec-
tion reinterpreting jump-hour watches in 37 mm cases and
featuring the brand’s first fully in-house automatic move-
ment. Launched in two versions, including one in platinum
adorned with 795 snow-set diamonds, the collection opens a
new chapter for artistic crafts at Louis Vuitton.
2. CARTIER Ronde Louis Cartier Panthère Métiers d’Art.
Presented in a 36 mm yellow gold case, this watch showcases
a decorative dial crafted from white or black lacquered moth-
er-of-pearl, gold leaves and threads, and an emerald form-
ing the panther’s eye. It is powered by the manual-winding
Calibre 430 MC.
3. LONGINES Mini DolceVita. Part of a collection inspired
by a 1927 model, this small rectangular quartz watch (21.5 ×
29 mm) is available in four two-tone variations. Each features
a steel case, a gold crown, and a gold-and-steel bracelet, with
options in yellow or rose gold and either with or without dia-
mond-set case sides.
4. RADO Anatom. Reintroduced in 2023 with an automatic
movement, the ergonomically designed Anatom features a
high-tech ceramic bezel and a 32.5 × 46.3 mm steel case. Today,
it’s offered with matching coloured dials and rubber straps,
in lemon yellow, grapefruit red, or lime green.
A Mediterranean breeze
From “Michel Herbelin” to simply “Herbelin”, a
name change made official in 2022, on the occasion
of the brand’s 75th anniversary. The updated identity
reflects a generational shift at the helm of the fam-
ily-run company from the Jura region, now led by
two grandsons of the founder along with two long-
standing family members. But the direction remains
unchanged: the aim is still “to create timepieces built
to last, crafted with artisanal know-how and imbued
with French elegance”.
The Cap Camarat collection, named after a cape
in the south of France near Saint-Tropez, embraces
the sport-chic aesthetic of integrated-bracelet
watches from the 1970s. First launched in 2018 with
hexagonal designs, the range expanded in 2022 to
include square-cased models with rounded corners.
Signature features include decorative screw-set bez-
els and horizontally striped dials that echo nauti-
cal codes, often reinforced through the use of deep
blue tones.
Most recently, the Cap Camarat Square line wel-
comed its first chronograph, a three-counter model
arranged in a C layout. The 30-minute counter at 9
o’clock is notably more understated than the 1/10th
of a second register at 12 and the small seconds at
6, the latter two aligned with the bracelet’s central
links for a particularly harmonious visual balance.
The pushers are bevelled and aligned with the crown
protectors making for a seamless integration into the
case design. ■ ED
HERBELIN Cap Camarat Square Chronograph
This 316L brushed and polished steel chronograph measures
40.5 x 40.5 mm and is water-resistant to 100 metres. On its
deep blue dial, bevelled hour markers and faceted hands for
the hours and minutes are partially coated with luminescent
material. The metal bracelet — a Herbelin signature — is fully
integrated and features both brushed and polished surfaces,
finishing in a double-folding clasp. Alongside chronograph
functions, including 1/10th second readout, the Cap Camarat
Square Chronograph also displays hours, minutes, seconds
and the date. It is powered by a reliable Swiss quartz move-
ment, the Ronda 3540.D, offering a battery life of 54 months.