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WATCH YOUR TIME |
TECH
COSC Direct
Founded in 1973, the COSC (Swiss Official
Chronometer Testing Institute) is an independent
organisation that tests the precision of Swiss-made
watch movements or complete watch “heads”, the
great majority of which are mechanical. Its role is to
determine whether or not they qualify for the title of
chronometer – in other words, high-precision time-
pieces. Each movement undergoes rigorous testing
across multiple positions and temperatures over a
period of 12 to 20 days. To pass, a mechanical cal-
ibre must demonstrate rate variations within -4 to
+6 seconds per day.
With its headquarters in La Chaux-de-Fonds,
COSC operates three state-of-the-art laboratories,
all identically equipped to meet ISO 3159 standards
and strategically located in western Switzerland, in
Biel, Le Locle and Saint-Imier, within easy reach of
most watch manufacturers.
Brands choose whether or not to submit all or part
of their production for COSC certification and some
prefer to use their own internal controls, which often
encompass broader quality criteria. Currently, around
40% of Swiss mechanical watches exported annually
carry COSC certification. “Obtaining COSC certifica-
tion is not compulsory, but it adds real value. It is a
guarantee recognised worldwide and across gener-
ations,” says director Andreas Wyss. This guarantee
comes in the form of a unique number engraved on
the movement, an official certificate delivered with
the watch and, often, a mention on the dial. However,
until now, COSC has tended to remain in the back-
ground for most end clients.
What’s new?
With its new logo, new tagline, new website, a
presence on social media and a newsletter, COSC
is now addressing certified chronometer owners
directly. It aims to establish itself as a brand in its own
right and to contribute more actively to the global
reputation of Swiss watchmaking. Client brands will
benefit from unprecedented support, while end cus-
tomers will gain an extra layer of confidence.
With the brands’ consent, owners now have access
to behind-the-scenes details of the certification pro-
cess, including the actual test results for the move-
ment in their own watch.
To support this, the COSC now offers the option
for brands to issue a specific certification card. It is
up to the brands to decide whether or not to offer
this added service but chances are that many will
say yes. ■ MLB
Making his debut at the 2001 Baselworld fair,
Richard Mille revolutionised haute horlogerie. Inspired
by Formula 1 engineering, the RM 001 Tourbillon fea-
tured novel materials, including a titanium and carbon
fibre baseplate and a design that didn’t just make the
movement visible; it made it the show. Every part of
the movement had a story to tell, and the stripped-
back engineering aesthetic borrowed from Formula
1 ensured that the eye wasn’t overwhelmed in the
way it was with earlier skeleton watches. Suddenly,
the movement was the story for anyone with pre-
tensions to a seat at the haute-horlogerie top table.
Richard Mille had a few direct imitators, but the
real influence of the RM 001’s launch was to make
the mechanics the centre of attention. Everyone
wanted to show off their horological creativity, from
TAG Heuer with their band-driven V4 to Breguet who
introduced the Tradition, the first model of which
was launched in 2005. Inspired by Abraham-Louis
Breguet’s souscription watches, the movement sits
almost entirely dial-side with the dial sitting like an
island above the gear-trains and escapement assem-
bly – less skeleton than anatomical display watch (see
also MB&F’s LM series).
Hublot’s Big Bang arrived in 2005, fusing the new
hyper-technical approach to an already off-centre
brand which quickly adopted the skeleton approach
as part of its identity – so much so that it’s almost a
surprise to see a closed dial Hublot. The brand was
also active in introducing novel materials and fin-
ishes, which enabled it to design skeleton watches
with uniform colours for the movement parts, thus
reducing the visual noise associated with earlier skel-
eton designs. Being Hublot, it immediately added in
500 baguette-cut diamonds to make the 2007 Big
Bang One Million Dollars: a watch that neatly defined
the brand’s bombast and technical ambition at that
time. Hublot went on to push the skeleton idea to its
limits with watches such as the MP05 LaFerrari that
sought to replicate the car’s open-engine design.→
1. JAEGER-LECOULTRE Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre
179. Featuring the Duoface concept, this fascinating Gyrot-
ourbillon calibre displays a different time zone on each side.
Thanks to exceptional skeletonisation, bevelling and lacquer
work, that’s best seen from the reverse side, this 31 × 51.1 mm
white gold watch becomes a true Art Deco masterpiece. Lim-
ited edition of 10 pieces.
2. RICHARD MILLE RM 16-02 Automatique Extraplate. Rich-
ard Mille’s rectangular watch returns with a Brutalist-inspired
design emphasised by extraordinary skeletonisation work. The
enigmatic indices follow the intricate pathways of the move-
ment, housed in a 36 × 45.65 mm case in titanium or, as pre-
sented here, in Quartz TPT® Terracotta.
3. CHOPARD L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual. The new auto-
matic calibre L.U.C 96.36-L combines a flying tourbillon with a
perpetual calendar and large date display, housed in a refined
40.5 mm yellow gold case. Its dial is crafted from gold with a
sunburst guilloché pattern in forest green. Hallmarked with
the prestigious Geneva Seal.
4. FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB RSM. A special case: the
movement of this chronometer, equipped with a tourbillon
and fusée-and-chain transmission, was developed by a watch-
making apprentice as his graduation project. Limited to just
20 pieces, each watch can be personalised according to the
purchaser’s preferences.