Published by
Watch Your Time
and distributed with
The Daily Telegraph
European Edition 2025
— Special Feature —
Thursday 25 September 2025. Published by Watch Your Time Holding
who take sole responsibility for the contents and distributed with The
Daily Telegraph. (London, South and North East England only)
THE MECHANICS
OF TIME
As seen by Audemars Piguet,
Breguet, Cartier, Chanel,
Chopard, Grand Seiko, Hermès,
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines,
Louis Vuitton, Panerai,
Patek Philippe, Rado,
Richard Mille, Rolex,
Tiffany & Co., TAG Heuer,
Van Cleef & Arpels…
W AT C H Y O U R T I M E . C O M
Noel Capri
lights up time
Behind the scenes of a photo shoot
One invention at a time
A.-L. Breguet redefined the art
of horology with his inventions.
His pursuit of perfection continues
to inspire those shaping the future.
To celebrate this legacy, Breguet
introduces the new Classique
Souscription 2025, crafted in the
exclusive new Breguet gold.
breguet.com
R O YA L O A K
© LUC BRAQUET
Published by Watch Your Time
and distributed with The Daily Telegraph
Contents
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European edition 2025, published simultaneously with Le Monde (France),
Frankfurter Allgemeine (Germany), Il Sole 24 Ore (Italy) and La Vanguardia (Spain).
Produced for The Daily Telegraph on Thursday 25 September 2025 by Watch Your
Time Holding who take sole responsibility for the contents.
Reproduction, even partial, of material published in Watch Your Time is strictly
prohibited. All rights reserved in the United Kingdom and other countries.
Luc Braquet is a Parisian Photographer. After several years working as an art director
for major advertising agencies Luc decided to live out his passion for photography. He
has worked for the magazines Vogue, Madame Figaro, Tatler UK, Elle… His story-tel-
ling transfigured by photography is a permanent quest for classicism and timelessness.
The Watch Your Time 2025 shoot team: Models Noel Capri and Victor Le Dauphin –
Photographer Luc Braquet – Photography Assistant Ella Bats – Videographer, Behind
the Scenes Ivan Isker – Stylist Fernando Damasceno – Styling Assistant Louise Victor –
Hair Sebastian Bascle – Make-up Joana Lafourcade – Producer Milana Keller @Mayak
Productions – Styling credits: Cover and editorial Tod’s – Summary Hermès – Page 32
(Collector) Miu Miu – Page 48 (Sport) Chanel – Page 56 (Women) Louis Vuitton, hat by
Maison Michel – Page 66 (Tech) Dior – Classic cars: 1967 Aston Martin DB6 Dubonnet
Rosso, 1953 Jaguar XK Roadster in white, 1958 AC Bristol.
IMPRESSUM: Founding Editor Christian Llavall-Ubach – Publishing Director Isabelle
Boudringhin, management@watchyourtime.com – Watch Consultant Éric Dumatin –
Editor-in-Chief Marie Le Berre – Editorial team Arthur Frydman (France), James Gurney
(U.K.), Paloma Recio (Spain), Paolo de Vecchi (Italy), Christophe Roulet (Switzerland), Vincent
Daveau (France) – Translations Timm Delfs (German), James Gurney (English), Paloma Recio
(Spanish), Paolo de Vecchi (Italian) – Photographer Luc Braquet – Photographic composi-
tions (pages 42 to 44) Romin Favre, production and styling Julie Chanut-Bompard – Graphic
design Graphic StudioFunk, Geneva – Photolithography Bombie, Geneva – Printed in the EU.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Sweet Alhambra
Watch. Created in 1968, the Alhambra
motif joined the watch collection thirty
years later. Since then, the four-leaf clover–
shaped timepieces have been constantly
reimagined to keep bringing good luck to
the world. Rooted in the Sweet Alhambra
aesthetic, this new quartz watch features
a sunburst guilloché gold dial at the centre
of a gold case framed with golden beads.
A creation crafted entirely in yellow gold,
presented on a glossy VCA blue alligator
strap.
13
BREGUET
17
EDITORIAL
Mechanically Yours
19
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
21
TAG HEUER
23
CHANEL
24
AUDEMARS PIGUET
26
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
28
CHOPARD
32
COLLECTOR
The mechanics of the heart
38
CARTIER
42
GALLERY
The mechanics of time
45
RICHARD MILLE
46
PANERAI
48
SPORT
The mechanics of sport
51
TIFFANY & CO.
54
ROLEX
56
WOMEN’S
Women’s Mechanical Watches
59
LOUIS VUITTON
61
PATEK PHILIPPE
63
GRAND SEIKO
64
HERMÈS
66
TECH
All is revealed
69
LONGINES
71
RADO
73
FERDINAND BERTHOUD
75
ZENITH
77
FREDERIQUE CONSTANT
78
HUBLOT
J12 BLEU DIAMOND TOURBILLON
The new J12 in exclusive blue ceramic,
designed and assembled by the CHANEL Manufacture.
Sapphires and diamonds. CALIBRE 5 Flying Tourbillon
Haute Horlogerie Movement.
Poetic Complications
Poetic Complications
Lady Jour Nuit
Lady Jour Nuit
Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme since 1906
New Bond Street - Harrods - Selfridges
vancleefarpels.com
13
| WATCH YOUR TIME
FOCUS
F O C U S
The Master of Time
GREGORY KISSLING | CEO BREGUET
Breguet is celebrating its 250th anniver-
sary with a year of global events and a
suite of exceptional launches.
Wearing a watch on the wrist, enjoying the conven-
ience of automatic winding, reading the time by touch
in the dark, benefiting from exceptional precision via a
tourbillon regulator and shock protection, reserving a
watch through pre-order, admiring a finely guilloché
dial… What we take for granted in watchmaking today
were once revolutionary innovations. In the 18th cen-
tury, these were groundbreaking achievements, and
they all stemmed from the visionary genius of a single
man: Abraham-Louis Breguet.
“We owe him an extraordinary number of inventions
and refinements that remain relevant today,” explains
Gregory Kissling, the CEO of Breguet since autumn 2024.
“There’s a reason he’s regarded as the father of modern
watchmaking, speaking both technically and aestheti-
cally. Breguet is the only brand regularly referenced by
name by our industry colleagues as when they mention
Breguet hands, Breguet numerals, the Breguet overcoil,
the gong spring, or the tourbillon — the list goes on. And
the most remarkable part is that all these innovations
were designed with the end user in mind.”
The golden thread
Celebrating this exceptional legacy, the maison is
marking 250 years of uninterrupted history — no small
feat. But where to begin?
“Breguet’s story is so rich and layered that we’ve struc-
tured the year into nine chapters, each with a key product
unveiling or event,” says Kissling. “Every stage introduces
one or more new models, drawn from our core collec-
tions and tied closely to our heritage. It’s a world tour
that will culminate at the Château de Versailles.” And
this is no coincidence, Versailles being home to Queen
Marie-Antoinette, for whom Breguet created what is,
perhaps, the most exceptional watch in horological his-
tory. The common thread winding through this year-
long celebration is a defining material: Breguet Gold.
A new, proprietary alloy that mixes silver, copper and
palladium with gold, offers greater resistance to discol-
ouration and enhanced stability compared to conven-
tional alloys and its softly pink-toned yellow is directly
inspired by the 18th-century alloys used by watchmakers
of Breguet’s era.
All the pieces presented in this celebration of two and
half centuries of history feature this new alloy, includ-
ing the first commemorative model revealed in Paris
this April, a decision that was bound to create a surprise.
Rather than the expected technical showcase of gears
and complications, Breguet have chosen a purer, simpler
tribute to the character of the era with the beautifully
pared-back Classique Souscription. Characteristically,
the watch has a single pomme-style hand and a pris-
tine white grand feu enamel dial, of exceptional clar-
ity and legibility. More importantly, it recalls a pivotal
moment in Breguet’s post-Revolution history: the sub-
scription model with which he launched his watchmak-
ing business. Innovatively, Breguet distributed handbills
inviting clients to secure their watches by ‘subscrib-
ing’ (hence ‘Souscription’) a deposit of 25%. In an era
where most almost all watches were made individu-
ally, the 700 orders that his scheme generated funded
his new business and kept his workshops busy for the
next thirty years.
Instant Recognition
Following the Classique Souscription, came the
Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035, presented in
Shanghai. This model introduced a new guilloché pat-
tern to a model that has come to exemplify Breguet in the
21st Century and was followed by two Type XX chron-
ographs launched in New York, both equipped with
high-frequency movements and exceptional finishing.
What drew Gregory Kissling to the Tradition model
was its very essence: “That deep perspective view into
the movement reveals the complexity and refinement
that define every Breguet timepiece. To me, that’s the
core of Breguet’s DNA — a strong visual identity, instantly
recognisable and full of character.”
That character is further emphasised by translucent
enamel over the new “Quai de l’Horloge” guilloché pat-
tern, a nod to Breguet’s historic Paris workshop. It is
also evident in the latest Type XX models, which hon-
our the first non-stop transatlantic flight from Paris to
New York in 1930. The 37-hour journey was completed
aboard a Breguet 19 aircraft — the brainchild of Abraham-
Louis’s great-great-grandson, an aviation pioneer in his
own right.
Genius clearly runs in the family. ■ Éric Dumatin
1. BREGUET Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035. Part of the
Tradition collection, which pays tribute to A.-L. Breguet through
its movement-centric architecture, this piece features several
brand exclusives: Breguet Gold, Breguet Blue, and the ‘Quai de
l’Horloge’ guilloché, all created for the 250th anniversary of the
Maison. On the reverse, a crescent-shaped platinum rotor echoes
historical motifs. This 38 mm automatic Tradition model includes
a discreet retrograde small-seconds at 7 o’clock and is a limited
edition of 250 pieces.
2. BREGUET Classique Souscription 2025. Purity defines this
40 mm watch inspired by historical Souscription models. It dis-
plays only the hours – with remarkable precision for a watch of
this type. On the reverse, the Breguet Gold case is decorated with
‘Quai de l’Horloge’ guilloché, while inside is the new manually
wound calibre VS00, which has a four-day power reserve. The
massive ratchet wheel is engraved with A.-L. Breguet’s original
description of the movement taken from the taken directly from
the prospectus he produced.
RM 75-01
Skeletonised manual winding tourbillon calibre
65-hour power reserve (± 10%)
Baseplate and bridges in titanium,
5N gold and grey PVD treated
Flying tourbillon with variable-inertia balance
Fast-rotating flying barrel
Case in clear sapphire
Limited edition of 15 pieces
A Racing Machine
On The Wrist
| WATCH YOUR TIME
17
EDITORIAL
© LUC BRAQUET
É D I T O
atchmaking echoes the world of automo-
biles in many ways; through its universe,
its spirit, its performance, its vehicles and
engines and across all eras. This issue follows in the
tracks of watchmakers involved in racing or working
alongside drivers, of those who draw inspiration from
cars to create timepieces, and above all, of those who
continue to uphold the art of mechanics. Fine automo-
tive engineering, among the foremost muses for fine
horological mechanisms, serves as our compass.
Today’s horological mechanics inspire cross-gen-
erational passion and foster communities of collectors
and enthusiasts ever eager to share their discoveries.
Watchmakers often speak to them directly, offering lim-
ited editions, one-off pieces, and reinterpretations of
now-legendary models. And women are no longer an
afterthought – not only do many freely opt for watches
traditionally deemed masculine, but they now enjoy
an increasingly diverse selection of female-centric
watches, particularly when it comes to complications:
it’s no coincidence that the annual Grand Prix d’Horl-
ogerie de Genève (GPHG) has had a dedicated “Ladies’
Complication” category for over a decade.
On the sportier side, chronographs naturally lead the
charge. With the ability to measure short intervals, just
like the timing instruments used in racing, they thrive
in arenas where performance is key, most notably in the
world of motorsport. In this edition, Noel Capri hits the
road, captured through the lenses of talented photogra-
phers Luc Braquet and Romin Favre, creating a narrative
thread that highlights how watchmakers maintain ties
with the automotive world, not least within Formula 1,
celebrating its 75th anniversary this year.
But above all, what we’re celebrating here is hor-
ological mechanics as an art form — an art that has
flourished ever since timekeeping stepped beyond the
bounds of necessity and utility. At the high end, watch-
making is indeed an art, the 12th, if you will, in tribute
to the 12 hours traditionally displayed on a watch dial.
Fittingly, “Craftsmanship of mechanical watchmaking
and art mechanics” has been inscribed on UNESCO’s
Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage
of Humanity since 16 December 2020.
As an art form, horological mechanics is stepping into
the spotlight more and more often, showcased through
increasingly creative stagings. More than ever, it seeks
to captivate and stir passions, an enthusiasm that will
now have a global stage every October the 10th: in ref-
erence to the customary 10:10 display on watch dials,
this date is now officially recognised as International
Watchmaking Day. ■
Editorial by Marie Le Berre
E D I T O R I A L
Mechanically Yours
19
| WATCH YOUR TIME
FOCUS
F O C U S
Legendary!
This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates its
iconic Reverso — a model that showcases
the brand’s total command over every
aspect of haute horlogerie.
No jubilee, of course, is needed to remind the world
of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of watchmaking but, for
2025, the Manufacture chose to theme its whole stand
at the Watches & Wonders show in Geneva around the
totemic Reverso.
Famously designed in 1931 for polo players, the watch
owes its longevity and special status to a design that
expresses Art Deco style and the clever engineering
that allows the case to slide and pivot within its frame.
Backed by the exceptional capabilities of one of the
industry’s most innovative manufactures and enriched
by the artistry of its rare handcrafts, the Reverso has
come to embody the inventive and technical spirit of
watchmaking, all without sacrificing an ounce of nat-
ural elegance.
Mulitfaceted
“This Reverso celebration gives us the opportunity to
tell stories” said Jérôme Lambert at this year’s Watches
& Wonders in Geneva. Having returned as CEO of the
Maison in 2024, after six years heading parent company
Richemont, Lambert radiates a contagious enthusiasm.
“It’s an extraordinary experience to once again lead a
Maison founded nearly two centuries ago, 192 years to be
exact,” he continued. “Especially one whose impressive
longevity has been fuelled by a rare creativity.” One of
the earliest full-fledged manufactures, Jaeger-LeCoultre
has over 1,200 in-house calibres and some 400 patents
to its name. A creativity that has found frequent expres-
sion in the Reverso, “it’s the most extensively developed
design within our collections,” Lambert noted, “and one
that remains highly relevant in today’s markets.”
Building on that aura, the Reverso is, naturally enough,
the focus for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s communications this
year with messaging that highlight the multifaceted
nature of a true chameleon watch, equally at home in any
setting. “The Reverso can tell the story of the great com-
plications, such as this year’s minute repeater,” Lambert
explained. It also brings to life the enchantment of the
decorative arts – just look at the enamelled ‘Shahnameh’
models inspired by 16th-century Persian miniatures.
“The Tribute Monoface Small Seconds with its new
Milanese mesh bracelet, by contrast, highlights the Art
Deco elegance of the design. Each Reverso explores one
or more dimensions of fine watchmaking, thanks to the
expertise housed within our centuries-old Manufacture.”
180 crafts, one watch
The Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater, issued in a
30-piece limited series, exemplifies Lambert’s vision.
First, it draws on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s historical authority
in chiming watches: As the brand notes, “Our first crea-
tion in the genre dates back to 1870, followed by over a
hundred masterpieces before 1900 alone.” For this model,
the Manufacture developed a new movement, the Calibre
953, which incorporates seven existing patents, includ-
ing key innovations that enhance sound quality. Among
them: trebuchet hammers, crystal gongs and the elimi-
nation of silences in the chime sequence. Aesthetically,
the watch features a hand-enamelled front dial with a
stunning barleycorn guilloché motif, while the reverse is
fully skeletonised and decorated with hand-chamfered
bridges and alternating brushed and grained finishes.
“A synthesis of the 180 crafts brought together under
one roof at our Manufacture, this new model embod-
ies both the versatility and the timeless modernity of
the Reverso,” says Jaeger-LeCoultre — and its central
role in the brand’s ongoing pursuit of horological inno-
vation, both mechanical and terms of design. On that
aesthetic front, the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small
Seconds, mentioned by Lambert, deserves a final spot-
light. With its rose gold case, matching grained dial and
Milanese bracelet, he says it exudes “a vintage glamour
infused with a distinct modernity”. Exactly what one
expects from a watch that, more than 90 years after it
first came to life, remains an icon at the very pinnacle
of fine watchmaking. ■ Éric Dumatin
1. JAEGER-LECOULTRE Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater.
A descendant of the 1994 Reverso Minute Repeater, the brand’s
first rectangular minute repeater, this 51.1 x 31 mm creation fea-
tures the new manually wound calibre 953, which, remarkably for
such a demanding complication, offers a 48 hour power reserve.
While the reverse (shown here) reveals the beautifully finished
movement, the front showcases a barleycorn-patterned guilloché
dial under Grand Feu enamel in a new teal blue colour. Limited
edition of 30 pieces.
2. JAEGER-LECOULTRE Reverso Tribute Monoface Small
Seconds. This elegant 45.6 x 27.4 mm Reverso in solid pink gold
(case and bracelet) displays time on a grained dial in a match-
ing tone and is powered by the manual-winding calibre 822.
It takes 16 metres of gold wire to make the Milanese mesh brace-
let, a technique dating back to the 13th century. The blank case-
back can be customised with engraving or lacquer.
JÉRÔME LAMBERT | CEO JAEGER-LECOULTRE
| WATCH YOUR TIME
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21
F O C U S
TAG Heuer has never been one to simply
mark time and in its 165th anniversary,
the brand’s unparalleled motorsports
credentials see it back where it belongs,
in the cockpit as Official Timekeeper of
Formula 1.
Racing is hardwired into TAG Heuer’s operating code,
there’s no sense of the brand getting involved or borrow-
ing an aesthetic here. The first watch brand to apply its
logo to an F1 car in 1969 and the first to sign a sponsor-
ship with a race team in 1971 and the log since accompa-
nied 239 wins, 613 podiums and 15 driver world cham-
pionships. TAG Heuer is part of Formula 1.
Antoine Pin, TAG Heuer’s CEO, sums it up: “After sixty
years in F1, TAG Heuer is embedded in the collective
memory. It’s just natural.” Pin’s predecessor, Frédéric
Arnault, re-energised TAG Heuer’s relationship with
motorsport through a partnership with Porsche that res-
onated through the paddock and beyond and now, TAG
Heuer returns to the grid not only as a participant, but
as Official Timekeeper. It’s a status that not only rein-
forces TAG Heuer’s technical reputation but brings a vast
global audience; the 1.5 billion that follow the sport avidly.
Yet visibility alone doesn’t justify the commitment.
At the heart of TAG Heuer’s re-entry into F1 is a sense of
shared values – precision, endurance, and the visceral
union between human and machine. “It’s this juxtaposi-
tion of technology and humanity, the harmony and ten-
sion, that’s the formula for success,” says Pin. And it’s a
sentiment that underpins the brand’s new ‘Designed to
Win’ campaign, unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva
2025, a campaign that riffs on the ‘mind games’ that fuel
triumph.
To bring the campaign to life, TAG Heuer enlisted
a trio of athletic titans: the ten-medal Olympian, Carl
Lewis, Double F1 champion, Mika Häkkinen and 4-medal
Olympic swimmer, Summer McIntosh. Representing dif-
ferent disciplines, but united through their meticulous
preparation, laser focus and an unyielding will to push
through perceived limits. “Between sport and watch-
making, the overlaps are not just poetic, they’re practi-
cal,” says Carole Forestier-Kasapi, Director of Movement
Strategy. “Since 1860, TAG Heuer has been one of the
most innovative and visionary brands in the industry.
For us, everything is about ‘functional design’, requiring
fundamental lab research and flawless quality testing to
push the limits of performance, functionality, and dura-
bility. It’s a mindset very similar to that of elite athletes.
Like them, we constantly measure time!”
This spirit is perfectly embodied in this year’s
watches—starting with three Formula 1 watches and,
for the adrenaline junkies, five versions of the Formula 1
Chronograph, including one dedicated to Oracle Red Bull
Racing. On the racing front, the ceramic-cased Monaco
Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 is the showstopper, a
study in split-second drama powered by the high-fre-
quency TH81-00 calibre, accurate to 1/10th of a second.
If it’s innovation you’re after, there’s the Formula 1
Solargraph that can run for 24 hours of from just one
minute of light exposure and up to 10 months after 40
hours: the battery holding the charge will last for 15
years. Rounding out the lineup are new Carrera mod-
els, including a Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye, a Carrera
Day-Date and a Carrera Chronograph for women. “An
elegant, precious watch that also has the plus of being
a chronograph” as Pin describes it. Pure TAG Heuer in
other words. ■ Éric Dumatin
1. TAG HEUER Carrera Day-Date. To mark TAG Heuer’s return
to the F1 circuits in 2025, the iconic Carrera Day-Date has been
updated both aesthetically and technically. Available in five 41 mm
models in a number of materials, colours and finishes, it houses
the exclusive TH31 movement, developed with AMT, boasting an
impressive 80-hour power reserve. The steel model with sun-
ray-brushed blue dial epitomises classic elegance.
2. TAG HEUER Formula 1 Solargraph. The Formula 1 line
returns boldly with nine 38 mm models: three regular collection
steel-bracelet versions and six limited editions on rubber straps,
with launches timed with Grand Prix, such as the black-and-yellow
version tied to the Mexico GP. The standout features are the use
of bio-polyamide either for the bezel only or for both case and
bezel and the Solargraph solar-powered movement.
Top chrono!
ANTOINE PIN | CEO TAG HEUER
L E N N Y K R A V I T Z
Jaeger-LeCoultre Boutique, 13 Old Bond Street, Mayfair, London W1S 4SX
REVERSO
T H E W AT C H M A K E R
O F W AT C H M A K E R S
| WATCH YOUR TIME
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23
F O C U S
To mark the 25th anniversary of the J12,
Chanel has reimagined this most emblem-
atic watch design with a new matte blue
ceramic skin. Offered in nine variations,
this new release is accompanied by a strik-
ing Chanel Blush capsule collection and a
new Première Galon.
At Chanel, no new chapter begins without meticulous
planning, every parameter being considered and ana-
lysed with the thoroughness that defines the maison.
Colour, for example, is treated with the same reverence
as a watch complication or a stone setting. Nothing is left
to chance, and everything is in service of creativity. For
the 25th anniversary of the J12, often hailed as the first
true horological icon of the 21st century, Chanel unveils
a fresh chromatic expression in matte blue ceramic, a
tone that the Maison characterises as “deep, intense
and unique.”
As Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of the Chanel Watch
Creation Studio, elaborates: “In 25 years, Chanel has
elevated ceramic to the status of a precious material.
The art of ceramic has become a signature of Chanel
watchmaking, a material that has inspired our engi-
neers, firing up their abilities and offering a vast canvas
for their creativity.”
After launching the original J12 in black ceramic, fol-
lowed three years later by white, the time has come
for what Chastaingt calls “a rigorously elegant blue —
almost black, or perhaps a black that’s almost blue.”
Getting there, however, was no short journey. “It took
us five years,” says Frédéric Grangié, President of Chanel
Watches & Fine Jewellery. “Because we control every
stage of ceramic production, we could take all the time
we needed. Still, this matte blue hue is the outcome of
around 150 lighting tests, both indoors and out, across
24 shades of blue. It was a true marathon.” The result:
Chanel offering nine new J12 Bleu references in four
sizes — from 28 mm to 42 mm — including a J12 Bleu
Tourbillon Diamant. Are more colours coming down
the line? “In the process, we’ve already created dozens
of new ceramic colours,” Grangié hints. “It would be a
shame not to reveal them someday or other.”
No limits watchmaking
In the meantime, Chanel continues to explore the full
breadth of its savoir-faire. It’s a watchmaking journey
that began nearly 40 years ago, in 1987, with the Première.
Since then, the brand has continually surprised, chal-
lenged the codes of haute horlogerie, and invested exten-
sively in doing so. Through acquiring manufacturing
capabilities, partnering with leading complication spe-
cialists, taking stakes in new industrial ventures and
committing to develop innovation internally, Chanel
now ranks among the few maisons bringing genuinely
fresh energy to watchmaking, all backed by technical
and artistic mastery that’s rare.
Its new Chanel Blush capsule collection is proof.
Inspired by the “energy of colour” found in Chanel’s
makeup universe, these watches showcase “the full cre-
ative force of exceptional colour and exceptional crafts-
manship”. And in this ‘capsule’? Soft pink tones, bold reds,
dramatic eyeshadow, random colour splashes — all ren-
dered using Grand Feu enamel, transfers, dial pad print-
ing, open setting, miniature painting and gold sculpt-
ing. “This collection, so full of surprises, leads us into
the world of Pop Art and Dripping Art,” says Chastaingt.
This spirit of innovation also extends to Chanel’s his-
toric designs. At Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025, the
brand introduced a new Première Galon. The galon, one
of Chanel’s most emblematic fashion elements, tradi-
tionally highlights contours, adorns pockets and cuffs,
and gives shape and structure to the maison’s signature
tailoring. Chanel now offers three Première Galon mod-
els, each with a rigid bracelet formed from twisted galon,
with or without gem-setting. “With the Première, we
created a watch for women incorporating all the codes
of the Maison — Place Vendôme, the leather strap, the
N°5 bottle…” says Grangié. In this anniversary year for
the J12, it’s Chanel’s Première that once again affirms
the maison’s ceaseless quest towards a style of watch-
making that is both inspired and free. ■ Éric Dumatin
1. CHANEL J12 Blue Diamond Tourbillon. Powered by the Cali-
bre 5 – a hand-wound mechanical movement developed in-house
and visible through a sapphire crystal back – the most sophisti-
cated of the J12 Blue models radiates with the brilliance of a unique
diamond set into its flying tourbillon cage: a 65-facet solitaire of
approximately 0.18 carat. As it rotates, it sparkles across the deep
blue dial, matched to a new ceramic hue, and over the bezel set
with 34 baguette-cut blue sapphires totalling around 4 carats.
The 38 mm J12 Blue Diamond Tourbillon is limited to 55 pieces.
2. CHANEL Première Galon. The iconic Première returns with a
reinterpretation of one of Chanel’s signature codes, the couture
braid, reimagined as a rigid bangle bracelet that gives the watch
a new wearing style. For its debut, the quartz-powered Première
Galon, measuring 19.7 x 15.2 mm, is crafted in yellow gold and
available in three versions, two of which are set with diamonds:
52 brilliant-cut stones on the bezel and 80 more on the bracelet
in the version shown here.
21st-Century Icon
FRÉDÉRIC GRANGIÉ | PRESIDENT OF CHANEL WATCHES & FINE JEWELLERY
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F O C U S
Audemars Piguet are celebrating 150
years of independence, innovation and
all-round watchmaking excellence. It’s a
landmark occasion for the Le Brassus man-
ufacture as it unveils anniversary pieces
that live up to its exceptional legacy.
By Éric Dumatin
Travelling to Le Brassus, in the heart of the Vallée de
Joux – the picture-postcard image of bucolic, enchant-
ing Switzerland – is also a way of soaking in the watch-
making culture that forged the reputation of an industry
quite unlike any other in the world. And when we talk
about the watchmaking culture of Le Brassus, Audemars
Piguet is everywhere. It is “the oldest fine watchmaking
manufacturer to remain independent and family owned”,
having been founded in 1875 in a village that then had
around 1,500 inhabitants. In 2025, as the Manufacture
created by Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-Auguste
Piguet celebrates its 150th anniversary, one cannot help
but marvel at its exceptional story, especially over the
past two decades.
Le Brassus’ AP City
To grasp the scale of this remarkable ascent, one need
only glance at the brand’s architectural developments.
It arguably all began with the Musée Atelier, a project
launched in 2012, with a foundation stone laid in 2017
and an opening to the public three years later. Then
came the Hôtel des Horlogers, another significant ven-
ture adjoining the company’s headquarters, designed to
offer a distinctive welcome experience. After these hos-
pitality-focused initiatives – a key part of the ‘client jour-
ney’ – it was the turn of Audemars Piguet’s production
facilities to undergo an equally ambitious programme.
“Each project has its own specific purpose,” explains
Ilaria Resta, CEO of Audemars Piguet since January 2024.
“The museum was created to bring people closer to the
brand, while the hotel is a space of hospitality, open to
all. As for our recent industrial projects, their primary
aim is to support our growth, especially in the field of
complications, which is one of our strategic priorities.”
At the end of 2021, Audemars Piguet inaugurated the
Manufacture des Saignoles in Le Locle, now home to the
workshops formerly known as Renaud et Papi – a spe-
cialist in complicated watch mechanisms acquired in the
1990s and now employing over 200 people. That same
year, the brand also purchased a former pharmaceuti-
cal production site in Meyrin, on the outskirts of Geneva,
which is being transformed and expanded to house its
Geneva-based case and bracelet production. Scheduled
to be fully operational in early 2026, with around 300
employees, the site will also host the Manufacture’s
New Technologies Hub. To this must be added the vast,
pharaonic construction project in Le Brassus itself, all built
in accordance with Minergie-Eco© standards and being
carried out in two phases. The first, completed in time
for this year’s jubilee, involved building an arc-shaped
structure around the 2008-era Manufacture des Forges.
The second phase will focus on upgrading the existing
Forges building to meet the brand’s evolving production
needs. With some 3,000 employees worldwide, it is clear
that Audemars Piguet is firmly focused on the future.
A world of exclusivity
This forward-looking mindset, which has helped pro-
pel the brand into the ranks of the world’s most pres-
tigious watchmakers – with 2024 revenue surpassing
2 billion Swiss francs, according to a report by Morgan
Stanley and LuxeConsult – goes well beyond industrial
strategy. Audemars Piguet has shown extraordinary
vision in creating an environment that is as original as it
is exclusive, providing fertile ground for its watchmaking
ventures. The brand has been a long-term sports sponsor,
notably in tennis with Serena Williams and especially in
golf, where a team of champions has gathered around
the legendary Sir Nick Faldo. But while sport remains a
powerful source of emotion – and a fine metaphor for
watchmaking values such as precision, patience and
resilience – Audemars Piguet has also looked further
afield, once again as a pioneer.
Audemars Piguet has forged strong ties with the
worlds of art and music, working on the belief that time
is meaningless without its aesthetic and creative dimen-
sions. “Audemars Piguet is convinced that creativity
fuels culture, brings people together and gives meaning
to life,” the company explains. Since 2012, it has sup-
ported around 20 artists and produced some 60 exhi-
bitions, including a long association with Art Basel. The
same drive has guided its ventures in music, notably a
partnership with the Montreux Jazz Festival. Meanwhile,
the Audemars Piguet Foundations – active since 1992
– have worked across environmental, educational and
social equity sectors to build “a sustainable world where
everyone can reach their full potential within resilient
and self-sufficient communities”. And to truly embody
these values, the brand has created dedicated spaces:
the AP Houses, the first of which opened in Milan in 2017.
These “second homes” for brand aficionados have since
sprung up across a string of major cities worldwide –
as of May 2025, Audemars Piguet counts 23 AP Houses,
including new ones in Singapore and Hong Kong.
On the QP
To mark its 150th anniversary, Audemars Piguet
invites discovery of this unique environment – one
that Ilaria Resta has taken time to absorb, following
her previous career at Firmenich in the world of fra-
grance. “Living in Switzerland, I was of course aware of
150 years of excellence
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ILARIA RESTA | CEO AUDEMARS PIGUET
Audemars Piguet,” she notes. “But even so, I had to learn
and observe. My arrival at the company was followed by
a long and beneficial onboarding process. It helped me
understand the brand’s roots and define its future pri-
orities. What we’re presenting for this 150th milestone
fully aligns with that vision. Innovation must always
remain coherent with the brand’s history.”
For the centrepieces of its anniversary collections,
Audemars Piguet has chosen to revisit one the compli-
cations it’s most closely associated with, the perpetual
calendar (‘QP’ from quantième perpétuel). A long-stand-
ing specialty of the maison, dating back to the found-
ers’ “school watches”, a QP was first presented in wrist-
watch form with a leap-year indicator in 1955. “Since
1875, astronomical timepieces have shaped Audemars
Piguet’s world,” says Ilaria Resta. “To celebrate 150 years
of innovation and craftsmanship, our watchmakers and
engineers have created a new, intuitive perpetual cal-
endar, designed with the user at the heart of the con-
cept. They developed a unique mechanism that allows
all adjustments to be made via the crown – a remarka-
ble technological advance that took five years to achieve
and required a complete rethink of the movement’s con-
struction.” This new Calibre 7138, protected by five pat-
ents, debuts in a Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet model
in white gold and in two Royal Oak models, in steel and
Sand Gold respectively. All three are limited editions
of 150 pieces, joined by a final piece – a skeletonised
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” in
titanium, which will be the last to feature the legend-
ary Calibre 5135.
Kind of Blue
In the realm of complications, Audemars Piguet is
also marking the occasion with five celebratory Code
11.59 by Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Carillon
Supersonnerie models, offering exceptional acoustic
performance in black ceramic, platinum, white gold, pink
gold and Sand Gold. Two feature iridescent opal dials,
while the other three reveal the full complexity of the
Calibre 2956 through a sapphire crystal dial. Other “retro
new releases” for this anniversary year include a Royal
Oak Double Balance Wheel Skeleton and two Royal Oak
Offshore Chronographs crafted in a new ceramic hue
inspired by the iconic “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50”. This deep
blue shade, originally imagined in 1972 by the legendary
designer Gérald Genta for the very first Royal Oak dial,
took its inspiration from the night skies over the Vallée
de Joux. Today, it makes a comeback in these new mod-
els, the ceramic being the result of years of development
to ensure reproducible uniformity of tone across all the
case components.
There is no doubt – 2025 is Audemars Piguet’s
moment to showcase the full extent of its expertise and
its singular vision of time. “From metals to masterpieces,
from farmers to watchmakers, from the valley to the
world, from tradition to innovation… what an extraor-
dinary journey these 150 years in Le Brassus have been.”
With these words, the brand invites all enthusiasts to
explore every facet of its remarkable story, not just on
the dedicated “House of Wonders” website but also via
a VR immersion at the Dreamscape centre in Geneva.
“To break the rules, you must first master them,” the
Manufacture says. Its forward momentum has always
adhered to that principle – a belief that if fine watch-
making is nothing without craftsmanship, equally, it is
nothing without imagination. That 150-year legacy is
proof indeed. ■
1. AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Skeleton “150th Anniversary”. To mark Audemars Piguet’s
150th anniversary, the automatic movement that has powered
its perpetual calendars for over a decade makes its final appear-
ance. And the spotlight is on the skeletonised version, the Cali-
bre 5135, which lays bare its intricacies beneath a vintage-style
sapphire dial that’s inspired by a pocket watch on display at the
Musée Atelier in Le Brassus. Housed in a 41 mm case made of tita-
nium and BMG (bulk metallic glass), a highly resistant alloy, this
edition features a new formulation co-developed by Audemars
Piguet that contains over 50% palladium. The model, fitted with
a titanium bracelet, is limited to 150 pieces.
2. AUDEMARS PIGUET Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet
Perpetual Calendar Automatic. The new automatic perpetual
calendar movement, Calibre 7138, is notable for its crown-only
adjustment system, eliminating the need for multiple correctors
set into the case. In 2025, it powers three 41 mm references; two
Royal Oaks and the Code 11.59 shown here. The latter comes in
a white gold case with a smoky blue dial embossed with the col-
lection’s signature motif, developed in collaboration with Swiss
guilloché artisan Yann von Kaenel. It is fitted with a blue rubber
strap lined with calfskin.
3. AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Offshore Automatic
Chronograph. To celebrate this anniversary year, ceramic takes
on the colour “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50”, the shade of the original Royal
Oak dial from 1972, in three new references, including a 42 mm
Royal Oak Offshore Automatic Chronograph. A monochrome aes-
thetic dominates, with the Méga Tapisserie dial, chronograph
counters and rehaut all finished in “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” and
matched by a ceramic case and bracelet (a new design with invis-
ible pin links). The chronograph is powered by Calibre 4404 with
flyback function, visible through a sapphire case back.
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F O C U S
Van Cleef & Arpels paid tribute to Paris at
Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, the
city of the Maison’s birth and a boundless
source of poetic inspiration ever since.
Visiting the Van Cleef & Arpels stand at Watches and
Wonders in any year is like rediscovering one’s inner
child. From the very first moment, visitors are capti-
vated by the whimsical worlds this storied jeweller cre-
ates, whether the magic of fairy tales, the mysteries of
the cosmos or, even, the wonders of nature, all seen
through a horological lens as unique as it is original. The
2025 edition was no exception, with a special dedica-
tion to the City of Light, allowing Van Cleef & Arpels
to explore “Poetic Time under the Parisian sky”. “This
event is always an opportunity for us to tell stories and
highlight our Poetic Complications, such as the Pont des
Amoureux collection,” explains Catherine Rénier, CEO of
the Maison since September 2024 (having previously led
Jaeger-LeCoultre for six years). “These creations have
become a signature of Van Cleef & Arpels, showcasing
both our mechanical expertise and our commitment to
the decorative arts, while expressing one of our found-
ing sources of inspiration: love.”
Without diving into the full history of Van Cleef &
Arpels, it’s worth noting that the Maison traces its ori-
gins to the 1895 marriage of Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle
Arpels, both from families of jewellery merchants. In
1906, they established their high jewellery and watch-
making house on Place Vendôme in Paris. Since then,
love has remained a central theme for Van Cleef & Arpels,
in perfect harmony with the Maison’s positive, life-af-
firming, creative philosophy. Among these love-inspired
creations, the Pont des Amoureux holds a special place.
Thanks to a double retrograde movement displaying the
hours and minutes, two lovers gradually approach each
other to share a kiss at noon and midnight, before part-
ing ways once more to continue marking time.
Since its launch in 2010, this now-iconic watch has
appeared in multiple iterations, including one featur-
ing an additional mechanical module that lets wearers
replay the kissing scene on demand, a twelve second
moment of magic.
In the name of love
This year, four new versions join the collection, pre-
senting the couple within painted scenes that cap-
ture different moments of the day. The dials feature a
sculpted gold bridge and are rendered in coloured gri-
saille enamel – a rare technique – while the casebacks
showcase enamel decals over sapphire crystal and hand
engraving on gold. Beyond these poetic additions, Van
Cleef & Arpels introduces a new chapter with the Lady
Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automaton, a watch that stages
a romantic reunion in a open-air café setting. At noon
and midnight, the characters move closer and kiss via an
automaton mechanism, a scene that can also be replayed
on demand. The hours and minutes are shown by two
stars driven by a bi-retrograde system. “This watch is the
essence of Van Cleef & Arpels horology,” says Catherine
Rénier. “Like every love story, it takes patience – in this
case, four years to develop both the calibre and the mod-
ule, which was conceived entirely in-house. Then comes
the full artistry of the dial, built in five layers and brought
to life with exceptional enamelling. These crafts are
vital to the Maison. Not only must we master them, we
must pass them on.”
No visit to the Van Cleef & Arpels stand would be com-
plete without a look at its Objets Extraordinaires, highly
complex automaton clocks, many of which are created
in collaboration with the sculptor and automaton-maker
François Junod. “These ‘objects’ allow us to tell our sto-
ries from a different perspective and in a wholly unique
way,” explains Rénier. In Naissance de l’Amour, Cupid
emerges from a basket of feathers. Meanwhile, the mon-
umental Automate Planétarium features the movement
of the Sun and planets in line with their real-world orbits.
With these works, Van Cleef & Arpels offers “a theatre
for dialogue between mechanical art, high jewellery and
the métiers d’art”, a theatre that perfectly embodies the
Maison’s incomparably enchanted world. ■ Éric Dumatin
1. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Auto-
mate. The lovers from the famous bridge now meet at an open-
air dance café, typical of Paris’s ‘faubourgs’ in the 19th Century.
Hours and minutes are indicated by retrograde starshaped hands,
while the couple dance at midday, midnight and on demand via an
automaton mechanism. They move across a multilayered scene
enriched with white gold, grisaille enamel and coloured grisaille
enamel, all housed within a diamond-set white gold case. It fea-
tures an automatic movement equipped with dual retrogrades
and automaton mechanism with ondemand animation.
2. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux Dawn.
In 2025, Van Cleef & Arpels introduces four poetic complications
celebrating times of day: Dawn, Morning, Evening and Moon-
light. For the ‘Dawn’ version in rose gold, the dial shows the lov-
ers as retrograde hands that traverse a coloured grisaille enamel
dial and the watch is paired with an intricately jewelled brace-
let adorned with diamonds and a gradient of pale pink sapphires.
Inside is an automatic movement with dual retrograde mecha-
nisms and on-demand animation.
Poetic Time
CATHERINE RÉNIER | CEO VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
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F O C U S
KARL-FRIEDRICH SCHEUFELE & JACKY ICKX
A story of passion
For Chopard, the legendary 1000 Miglia
race is more than a rally, it’s an expres-
sion of the enduring bond between man
and machine, both on the road and on the
wrist.
Watch sponsorships are much like romantic relation-
ships. Some are lucky enough to stand the test of time
and such is the case with the long-lived association of
Chopard and the 1000 Miglia rally, the longest continu-
ally-running partnership between a watchmaker and a
motorsport event. Begun in 1988, with Chopard as offi-
cial timekeeper of the race, it remains, 37 years later, a
textbook example of perfect synergy. Proof of that lies
in the personal commitment of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele,
co-president of Chopard, who took to the wheel himself
just a year after the partnership began and has never
missed a race since. And it was through this experience
that he formed a friendship with Jacky Ickx — a motor
racing legend who has become part of the Chopard fam-
ily. “We are indeed very loyal to this partnership,” notes
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. “This connection between
watchmaking and motoring comes from a shared obses-
sion with precision and mastery of time.”
A fine alchemy
What Scheufele does not say, but what lights up his
eyes whenever the subject is raised, is that this race
occupies a very special place in the world of motor-
sport. Running over thousands of kilometres along the
old Italian roads between Brescia and Rome and with
crowds of fans lining the route, it’s an automotive Tour
de France. An endurance event where camaraderie and
sporting challenge go hand in hand. Most of all, the race
is open only to cars that took part in the original 1000
Miglia between 1927 and 1957, when the race was sus-
pended owing the number of accidents. But Italians have
never lost their love for beautiful machines and nei-
ther has Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, who has a particular
fondness for vintage cars. When the organisers of the
revived 1000 Miglia Storica met Chopard, a partnership
was inevitable. Together, they helped restore the pres-
tige of “la Corsa più bella del mondo”, a celebration of
the gentleman driver spirit and sheer mechanical beauty.
This chemistry could hardly leave Chopard unmoved.
With precision and elegance as guiding principles, the
brand released its first Mille Miglia watch as a limited
edition for the 400 or so drivers at the starting line. It had
a sporty yet refined aesthetic with its classically round
case, wide bezel and tachymeter scale for measuring
average speed, designed to be sufficiently legible so the
chronograph can be read without taking eyes off the road.
The design instantly recalled a classic car’s dashboard,
complete with the unmistakable Mille Miglia red arrow
logo as its signature. That initial chronograph was fol-
lowed by 35 variations, nearly one per year. From the
outset in 1988, Chopard offered fan versions alongside
the special ‘competitor’ pieces for the race participants.
Onward journey
In nearly four decades, the collection has evolved sig-
nificantly. One of the major changes came in the 1990s,
with the move to automatic mechanical movements
across the board, including a split-seconds chronograph.
From the year 2000 onwards, another hallmark became
standard: all movements now carry COSC chronome-
ter certification, an assurance of precision that applies
to both lines and has defined the collection since 2015.
The first, Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph, has a dis-
tinctly vintage spirit, inspired by the earliest race cars
from 1927 to 1940. The second, Mille Miglia GTS, adopts
a sportier look, more in keeping with the vehicles that
competed between 1940 and 1957. In recent years, the
brand has also begun using Lucent Steel™ for the cases,
a high-quality steel exclusive to Chopard, made from
80 percent recycled material.
“A car, like a watch, is a marvel of engineering,” the
brand concludes. “All true watch and motor enthusi-
asts know it. And Chopard knows it better than most.”
With this truth as a foundation, the 1000 Miglia and the
timepieces that bear its name look set to keep racing far
into the future.
■ Éric Dumatin
1. CHOPARD Mille Miglia GTS Power Control – 2025 Race
Edition. Marking ten years of the GTS (GT Sport) collection,
Chopard offers a 43 mm Lucent Steel™ model with a trendy salmon
dial featuring a power reserve indicator, 1000 Miglia ‘arrow’ date
window, and now a small-seconds display, while nighttime leg-
ibility is ensured by blackfilled SuperLumiNova hands and indi-
ces. Limited to 250 pieces, the watch is powered by Chopard’s
in-house, COSC-certified, automatic Calibre 0102M and is paired
with a perforated calf leather strap backed with rubber.
2. CHOPARD Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Tribute to
Sir Stirling Moss. This year’s homage to Sir Stirling Moss cele-
brates his legendary 1955 Mille Miglia victory with co-driver Denis
Jenkinson, when they completed the race in 10 h 7 m 48 s, an
average speed of 157.65 km/h, a pace that’s still unmatched. The
40.5 mm Lucent Steel™ chronograph is COSC-certified and based
on the ETA A32211 movement. Limited to 70 units for the 70th anni-
versary of his record, it comes on a perforated calf leather strap.
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